
Note: This post will either leave you laughing at our bad luck or in shock of our misfortunes; either way, I know one day I’ll look back and laugh, “Remember that one time in Naples?”
To be honestly with you all, I “strongly dislike” Naples; and that’s putting it politely. I was expecting this city on the coast to be blessed with ornate architecture and Italian charm, which it somewhat had; HOWEVER, nowhere in the Lonely Planet book did it mention that it was all covered under a piles of trash. Almost every corner was home to a permanent pile of trash that either overtook the whole sidewalk or was stacked up to the top of street signs. In addition, every local we met told us not to wander around at night and always keep our purses glued to our sides. Not too bad seeing as purse snatchers are prominent in almost every popular European city and darkness always brings concerns, but this time the locals actually looked concerned for us. Why didn’t anyone say anything before? Why didn’t the book mention trash? The questions go in circles. After asking around, we came to the combined conclusion that the trash has been a “norm” in the city for the past 10 years or longer. Apparently it’s not picked up because there is nowhere to put it and the government and Mafia (Yes, they do exist) are in conflict.

So all my hopes and dreams about the city of Naples were crushed and I sulked around the first day trying to wrap my head around how I’d made such an idealization. It took about an hour before we decided to get out of the city and we escape to Pompeii for a few hours before returning to begin a dinner hunt. We met up with a guy from our hostel and wandered around some residential areas and were relieved to see that the trash wasn’t as prevalent, but the buildings seemed to be in a crumbling state. No one bothered to clean off graffiti or reapply stucco, which was usually missing in chunks. It really hit home with me to realize that a city with so much history and so much potential was going to trash, literally.

The following days in Naples were actually spent exploring the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri.
(NOTE: those trips were amazing so check out those blogs for a nicer read)
During our second night in the Naples, we were returning from a day trip from the Amalfi Coast. We took all the right buses to get back, but somehow failed to realize that local trains stop running at 10pm and we were thus stuck in Sorrento, about 2 hours away from Naples. We were fortunate enough to find a bus that drove us back that night, but not without it scaring the living daylights out of us first. That ride had me saying my Hail Mary’s and every other prayer I remembered from my Confirmation classes. On top of that, we arrived at half past midnight and no local buses were coming our way. We opted to walk the 20 minutes back to the hostel, but a local from the bus (he spoke English) intercepted and escorted us to the nearest taxi because it wasn’t safe. Bless that man.
The following day passed without any problems, but the morning we left turned into another sticky situation. Now before I begin my story here’s some background info. From my weeklong experience, I’ve found that Italy (In terms of Naples more so than Venice) has the oddest and most dysfunctional public transportation service. In Venice if there wasn’t a store to buy public transportation tickets, you could at least buy them on board; however Naples seemed to have vetoed that option. So the day we arrived in Naples, the ticket women not only sold us the wrong ticket, but also wouldn’t sell us both a ticket. So we hopped on the bus. Later we found out that the women charged me extra for an all-day pass for one person. The morning we left there were no ticket booths open and none near the bus stop, so we hopped on the bus and of course couldn’t buy them on board. We figured we might make it okay considering 80% of the other passengers didn’t have tickets either and we only had a 5 minute ride. Um, NO. Just as our bad luck should have predicted, a ticket checker came on board and demanded that we, and the 10 or so other people on board each pay the 41 Euro fine. Fast forward to the end, an Italian woman was screaming at the ticket checker to let us “tourists” go and he let me run for my train, which I made by exactly 1 minute. Unfortunately Emma and I still had to pay the fine, but I suppose we were the lucky ones because we spilt the total while the rest of our ticketless group was held to the full price. Now I understand that there are rules and it was his job; but this guy was like the cop out of Meet the Fockers 2. If you haven’t seen it, look it up because you’ll probably end up laughing.
On a practical note, I believe Naples should try selling tickets on the bus like Venice; however, they might lose money considering the fortune they rack up fining people; locals and tourists alike. Personally, it all seems like a scam because it’s a ridiculous system for tourists to navigate and the majority of citizens don’t bother to abide by its rules. Anyway, I hope they use our money for something useful, like trying to clean up the city.
Hostel of The Sun, Naples, ItalyTHE GOOD PART about Naples was that our hostel, Hostel of the Sun, was the BEST hostel I've ever stayed in. It was smaller, colorful and filled with great people. The beds had comfy-feathered blankets and each an extra fleece throw if you were cold. At breakfast, each table had a huge tub of Nutella that you can pile onto as much toast as you want. They also provided milk, juice, cereals and fruit free of charge. At night everyone gathers in the common room and bar area where cocktails are 2 for 5 euro. One night we all gathered for the Barcelona verse Real Madrid game and another to play a few rounds of cards. They provide board games, movies and Wii if you want as well. All the bathrooms were single person, and while everyone shared, they were spotlessly clean and there was always hot water. It also helped that the price was the cheapest I've experienced. On a comical note one cheerful staff member even told us to "look past the rubbish" but Emma and I couldn't help but think, "that's a bit difficult, when it's literally always blocking your view." But anyway, the picture above I grabbed from hostelbookers, but it gives you an idea. I've posted the link to this hostel below the picture and as far as I'm concerned it gets an A++.
To close the books on this adventure, if you’re planning to visit Capri, the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii, stay in Sorrento. The town is cute and safe, the shopping is great and its close to everything.