Either You Love Naples, Or You Hate It

Note: This post will either leave you laughing at our bad luck or in shock of our misfortunes; either way, I know one day I’ll look back and laugh, “Remember that one time in Naples?”

To be honestly with you all, I “strongly dislike” Naples; and that’s putting it politely. I was expecting this city on the coast to be blessed with ornate architecture and Italian charm, which it somewhat had; HOWEVER, nowhere in the Lonely Planet book did it mention that it was all covered under a piles of trash. Almost every corner was home to a permanent pile of trash that either overtook the whole sidewalk or was stacked up to the top of street signs. In addition, every local we met told us not to wander around at night and always keep our purses glued to our sides. Not too bad seeing as purse snatchers are prominent in almost every popular European city and darkness always brings concerns, but this time the locals actually looked concerned for us. Why didn’t anyone say anything before? Why didn’t the book mention trash? The questions go in circles. After asking around, we came to the combined conclusion that the trash has been a “norm” in the city for the past 10 years or longer. Apparently it’s not picked up because there is nowhere to put it and the government and Mafia (Yes, they do exist) are in conflict.



So all my hopes and dreams about the city of Naples were crushed and I sulked around the first day trying to wrap my head around how I’d made such an idealization. It took about an hour before we decided to get out of the city and we escape to Pompeii for a few hours before returning to begin a dinner hunt. We met up with a guy from our hostel and wandered around some residential areas and were relieved to see that the trash wasn’t as prevalent, but the buildings seemed to be in a crumbling state. No one bothered to clean off graffiti or reapply stucco, which was usually missing in chunks. It really hit home with me to realize that a city with so much history and so much potential was going to trash, literally.



The following days in Naples were actually spent exploring the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri.
(NOTE: those trips were amazing so check out those blogs for a nicer read)

During our second night in the Naples, we were returning from a day trip from the Amalfi Coast. We took all the right buses to get back, but somehow failed to realize that local trains stop running at 10pm and we were thus stuck in Sorrento, about 2 hours away from Naples. We were fortunate enough to find a bus that drove us back that night, but not without it scaring the living daylights out of us first. That ride had me saying my Hail Mary’s and every other prayer I remembered from my Confirmation classes. On top of that, we arrived at half past midnight and no local buses were coming our way. We opted to walk the 20 minutes back to the hostel, but a local from the bus (he spoke English) intercepted and escorted us to the nearest taxi because it wasn’t safe. Bless that man.

The following day passed without any problems, but the morning we left turned into another sticky situation. Now before I begin my story here’s some background info. From my weeklong experience, I’ve found that Italy (In terms of Naples more so than Venice) has the oddest and most dysfunctional public transportation service. In Venice if there wasn’t a store to buy public transportation tickets, you could at least buy them on board; however Naples seemed to have vetoed that option. So the day we arrived in Naples, the ticket women not only sold us the wrong ticket, but also wouldn’t sell us both a ticket. So we hopped on the bus. Later we found out that the women charged me extra for an all-day pass for one person. The morning we left there were no ticket booths open and none near the bus stop, so we hopped on the bus and of course couldn’t buy them on board. We figured we might make it okay considering 80% of the other passengers didn’t have tickets either and we only had a 5 minute ride. Um, NO. Just as our bad luck should have predicted, a ticket checker came on board and demanded that we, and the 10 or so other people on board each pay the 41 Euro fine. Fast forward to the end, an Italian woman was screaming at the ticket checker to let us “tourists” go and he let me run for my train, which I made by exactly 1 minute. Unfortunately Emma and I still had to pay the fine, but I suppose we were the lucky ones because we spilt the total while the rest of our ticketless group was held to the full price. Now I understand that there are rules and it was his job; but this guy was like the cop out of Meet the Fockers 2. If you haven’t seen it, look it up because you’ll probably end up laughing.

On a practical note, I believe Naples should try selling tickets on the bus like Venice; however, they might lose money considering the fortune they rack up fining people; locals and tourists alike. Personally, it all seems like a scam because it’s a ridiculous system for tourists to navigate and the majority of citizens don’t bother to abide by its rules. Anyway, I hope they use our money for something useful, like trying to clean up the city.



Hostel of The Sun, Naples, Italy

THE GOOD PART about Naples was that our hostel, Hostel of the Sun, was the BEST hostel I've ever stayed in. It was smaller, colorful and filled with great people. The beds had comfy-feathered blankets and each an extra fleece throw if you were cold. At breakfast, each table had a huge tub of Nutella that you can pile onto as much toast as you want. They also provided milk, juice, cereals and fruit free of charge. At night everyone gathers in the common room and bar area where cocktails are 2 for 5 euro. One night we all gathered for the Barcelona verse Real Madrid game and another to play a few rounds of cards. They provide board games, movies and Wii if you want as well. All the bathrooms were single person, and while everyone shared, they were spotlessly clean and there was always hot water. It also helped that the price was the cheapest I've experienced. On a comical note one cheerful staff member even told us to "look past the rubbish" but Emma and I couldn't help but think, "that's a bit difficult, when it's literally always blocking your view." But anyway, the picture above I grabbed from hostelbookers, but it gives you an idea. I've posted the link to this hostel below the picture and as far as I'm concerned it gets an A++.

To close the books on this adventure, if you’re planning to visit Capri, the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii, stay in Sorrento. The town is cute and safe, the shopping is great and its close to everything.

3 Hollins Women, One Big Barcelona

This weekend my Hollins girlfriends and I hit the streets of Barcelona. Not exactly Cheetah Girl Style, but we rocked it. The first night we arrived around 11pm. So we dropped our things off at Kabul -our hostel in Plaza Real right off Las Ramblas – before hitting up some long awaited tapas. Then we located the closest Dunkin’ Coffee (Dunkin’ Donuts Spanish Style) for future reference and took to bed.


The following morning we rushed out to make our 11am tickets for La Sagrada Familia and the church left nothing to disappoint. The gothic style building peaks higher than almost anything in the city and it still amazes me how original and intricate the architecture is. When we walked inside, we were taken back by the pillars that mirror Red Wood trees. They seemed to turn the church into a stone forest.

There were four pillars that had glowing circlets of a lion, angle, and other animals. They would have looked so out of place in any church, but in Gaudi’s, they just made his style more robust. I have no idea what they represent and unfortunaly wiki doesn't comment on them. Before leaving we checked out Antoni Gaudí's crypt and took the lift up into the towers too see the top of the towers and the work still in process. After we grabbed pizzas by a nearby bar and took the metro over to Parque Guell.

The plaza of Parque Güell made me feel like I was a play piece on Candy Land (If you all remember that childhood board game). The houses looked like they were made out of gingerbread and the curvy staircase transported you to a different world with the famous mosaic lizard. The rest of the park I was slightly disappointed with. The viewing area had the beautiful mosaicked seats, but the center was a giant dust bowl. I wish they had an input box so I could recommend grass; however, there was this man in the middle jamming out on plastic tubs. Usually street performers can pull this off, but this guy was literally beating to a whole new drum with NO rhythm in a magician’s cape and Heinekens hat. I thought at first he was pulling a prank until I saw him the following day down at the beach.

When we hiked around the uppermost part of the park we eventually found cute grassy patches and park-like areas. Off to the left of the park are stone steps that curve into a platform laden with stone crosses. Gaudí’s faith in the Catholic Church seems to always artfully show itself in all of his work. From that point we could see almost the entire city including La Sagrada Familia and the beach. That night we wandered the city till we found the Barcelona Cathedral. After walking by it about 4 times, we found it. It was beautiful, but because it was under construction, we weren’t able to see it all lit up. So along with a guide book and our imaginations, we imagined it lit up before scampering off to more tapas for dinner.



Speaking of the Beach, we spent the majority of the next day sunbathing in the sands of Barcelona’s coast. While Kelsey and I gradually turned darker shades of brown, our friend Emma just seemed to turn pink, then eventually red. So we packed up our stuff and meandered down the walkway for 30 minutes stopping to play with cute dogs and find good benches for people watching and conversation. Just a heads up for any beach goers, if you walked down towards all the restaurants, you’ll find an outdoor exercise park, filled with toned athletes. Conveniently, the city placed numerous stone benches in front of this park and so, this area doesn’t just provide the ocean as a great view. After our beach adventure we grabbed some gelato then went back to the room for a siesta and shower before heading out for dinner. It was a casual evening spent with friends and we didn’t head out to any big clubs like most of the jovenes; but I suppose that’s because we were rather content with good sangria, good tapas and good friends.



The following morning was our last in Barcelona so while my friends headed down to the beach for some extra sun I took the tram up to the top of the Montjuïc fortress. It has an intense past as many people were imprisoned, tortured and executed here; however its gardens were perfectly laid out and from the very top was the BEST view of Barcelona.The fortress gives you a panoramic view of the city, mountains, portside/industrial section and ocean. I made peace walking the grounds, posing for pictures with ginormous guns and enjoying the breeze and pretty views. It was the perfect ending to my Barcelona trip with the whole city laid out before me.



If there was one thing I had to gripe about its my failed attempt to take my suntan lotion through airport security. I bought water-resistant, UVA, UVB 50SPF for 11 euros, which is a bargain in Alicante (At the pharmacies in Alicante 30SPF non water-resistant is 18 euro). So instead of trying to smuggle it through airport security like me, pack a giant bottle when you come over from the States and a little travel container for trips. Your skin will thank you later.

Next week Emma and I are heading out to Venice, Naples, Capri and Pompeii for Semanta Santa; so until then, Beso Beso!

Hola? Bonjour? HELLO?!

Let me start off by saying the people of Paris completely banished any “snob” stereotype I might have had. The people are charming, the city is beautiful and I couldn’t keep my eyes off the ornate architecture. Secondly, the beginning of my trip followed the script of TAKEN word for word. A girl and her friend Amanda travel to Paris share a cab with a boy named Peter, he invites them to a party and they are kidnapped. We skipped the kidnapping aspect, but we couldn’t help but notice I was traveling with my friend Amanda to Paris, sharing a bus with a boy named Peter and he invited us out to a Party that night. WEIRD. But our Peter was Polish and insisted that if you drink Polish Vodka, you know EVERYTHING.



Continuing, our first night in Paris we spent a good two hours trying to find our Hotel, but after two trips on the subway, I felt like I knew it backwards and forwards. My friend Amanda and I pulled a total tourist move and booked a double-decker bus tour for our first night there so we could see all the monuments lit up at night. That was 22 euros worth my money. We saw the Eiffle Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, Les Invalides (Napoleon's Tomb), Opéra Garnier, Moulin Rouge, the Luxor Obelisk and so much more in all they’re sparkly glory. When we approached the Eiffel Tower I had jaw-drop syndrome. If I wasn’t already a hopeless romantic, the Eiffel tower had converted me. I know it’s a “tower,” but it literally TOWERS over the entire city. The nearby buildings bask its golden glow and when it sparkles, it’s like the world stops to stare. Maybe I’m being dramatic, but really, it’s one BIG work of art. Another interesting sight was all the jovenes drinking by the Sien River. Groups of party goers had set up blankets along the canal and were drinking wine to their hearts content. I had Dorothy moment and told Amanda, “We’re SO NOT in America anymore.” Paris was just like Spain when it comes to drinking. It’s casual and in public. I still get the urge to tell people, “OMGOSH, I hope the cops don’t come!” Before I remind myself that the cops are probably drinking down there with them.




My next favorite excursion was the Louvre. Lucky for us we went of the first Sunday of the Month (April) when the Louvre was free. Que Suerte! We saw the Mona Lisa and just about every other famous painting my art teachers made me interpret in elementary school. And just in case you didn’t know, the Louvre is HUGE. I swear they’d need a search and rescue team if someone went missing. It took us about 4-5 hours to cover all the floors and we spent the rest of our time browsing all the shops below the museum. It’s a chic mini mall down there.




The next day we walked the inside of Notre Dame and caught up with a friend for lunch and chit-chat in the Luxemburg gardens before scaling the Eiffel Tower. The gardens of Luxemburg are impresionante. There are tulips in bloom everywhere you look and the landscaping is immaculate. It’s a great spot for reading a book and enjoying on gelato.


When it came to the Eiffel Tower we really didn’t “scale” it. We cheated like 99% of the rest of tourists and took an elevator to the top. From the top, we received 360 degree views of Paris. We could point our every important monument and watch the Sein River twist through the city. The sky was blue, the clouds were puffy and we were some VERY happy tourists. We spent that night wandering the streets before sitting down at a cute little restaurant.
It’s difficult to find a place to eat that doesn’t cater to tourists in Paris, but I was perfectly content with this restaurant. Amanda and I paid ten euro each for our meal, which included an appetizer, main course and dessert of choice. The waiter even gave us wine on the house since we were his favorite costumers that night; which may or may not have anything to do with our picked tulips and lilacs that we placed in a vase the table. I think it was a good trade, we helped them with interior design and they gave us free wine. Our last morning in Paris was a quickie. We grabbed muffins at the McCafe and some photos in front of the Eiffel Tower before catching our bus to the airport.

Basically I LOVED Paris because I got my fill of Monet, Nutella and bannana crepes and architecture in one swoop.