Tuesday, May 3, 2011

La Dulce Vida

Emma and I took on the little island of Capri on the last day of our Italy tour and thank goodness we did because the weather gods blessed us with sunny skies and light sea breezes.




The Island of Capri is a tranquil mix between resort town and local farmers. The hillsides are scattered with villas, little vineyards and gardens. Scaling up the cliffs are patches of trees and the backside of the Island seems to house the elite which once coined the phrase, La Dulce Vida. The grottos glow, the views are breath taking and everything lemon leaves a bittersweet taste on your tongue.



We arrived on the island by ferry around 9am. Sunshine was still spilling into the narrow streets of Capri Town and we wandered along cobblestone paths to take in our surroundings. Most of the town was still waking up, but shop owners and vineyard caretakers were up and about with their morning chores. Every street was lined with luxurious villas or the whitewashed houses of locals. More towards the main square, the side streets were home to Louis Vuitton and all his expensive brother and sister shops. Every window glittered with rhinestones or shone with silk-draped mannequins. After grabbing a croissant we took a bus up the twisty roads to Anacapri. This part of the island hosts more locals as quaint homes and gardens scatter across the rising peak. I’d read in my Lonely Planet book that Capri was known for its sandal making; so I’m guilty of seeking out the renowned sandal maker Antonio Viva.



He really is a charming old man. He sits outside his workshop, surrounded by sandals of every size shape and style. On approach, I could hear him humming a tune while he pieced together the sole of a sandal in making. I couldn’t resist. Antonio explained the majority of the old photographs pasted on his walls and in between learning the history of his business; I tried on about 15 pairs of sandals. I eventually opted for a simple pair with metallic gold straps. While he added the finishing touches, I couldn’t help but smile.



After receiving my hand made sandals, I located the chair lift that would take me to the peak of Capri. I was slightly unnerved in the beginning; however I soon learned the views make you forget the non-locking, thin metal bar holding you in place. From the top I could see the whole island and in the distance, Sorrento and Naples. There was a cool breeze being lifted off the sea and I laid about on the grassy cliff side to sunbath for about an hour. As difficult as it was, I descended the cliff via the chairlift in search of gelato. After acquiring my usually chocolate and lemon gelato cone (It really is delicious) I meandered back down to the Marina to locate a boat tour of the island. Unfortunately the water was too high to allow tours of the Blue Grotto, but I was very content with my island tour. The boat took us into grottos that were blooming with coral flowers, dripping with stalagtites and stalagmites (Grotta Bianca) and the Green Grotto, which glowed with the same electricity as the Blue Grotto. We saw natural arches, the Anacapri Light House, Villa Malaparte and drove through the Faraglioni. I suppose what captivated me the most was simply the color of the water; It was the most brillante blue I’ve ever seen. No doubt the Hawaiian Islands still have my bid for the clearest water, but here, the sparkling, shimmering, bright blue water is a sight in itself.



After the boat tour I laid on the rocky beach for an hour or two just to listen to the waves and read. Seriously guys, if you’re a book geek and like to travel, a kindle or any e-book is one of the best investments you’ll ever make. Once the sun set, I grabbed pizza from a restaurant on the Marina and befriend a Golden Retriever who graciously helped me finish my crusts. As I waited for the boat to take me back to Naples, I reflected on my day and decided that Capri has the ability to transport it’s visitors away from reality for a bit. I hope that one day I’ll be back, and for more than just a day.

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